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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Which rope to buy - again
glebechris
23-Oct-2008
11:10:01 AM
Need to get my hands on a rope pretty quick. From what I can tell I can get Mammut from pinnacle sports or cruise down to Kent Street and get Mammut or Beal.

Thinking around 10 or 10.2. Mostly do gym or single pitch sport and trad. Trying to do more multipitch. Weight not a major issue (or I'd just diet!). Use a Reverso3 so I thought around the 10mm would be a good compromise to give me reasonable durability. I am a dry weather climber so dry coating does seem worth the expense unless there is another reason.

Any suggestions? How does the Beal Flyer 10.2 stack up.Or the Beal Edlinger II which seems so much cheaper! There's also Roca ropes at Mountain Equipment - the Fanatic 10mm.

In the Mammut there is the Galaxy10mm - but that talks about sport and alpine climbing so not sure if it is appropriate.

Or what else would I be able to lay my hands on quite quickly.

Cheers

Eduardo Slabofvic
23-Oct-2008
12:07:11 PM
(Warning - personal preference about to be expressed) I'm currently using my 5th Galaxy, best rope I've
ever used. Mammut in general are the best I've used. Have used beal and Ederlrid (or how ever it's spelt)
and always come back to Mammut

sliamese
23-Oct-2008
12:33:51 PM
yeah get the galaxy, also the best rope ive owned, lanex a close second! i did 3 big-walls with a galaxy and it still felt new!

kev
23-Oct-2008
2:12:27 PM
Third nomination for Mammut. :) Although I've got a Supersafe 10.2mm, not the Galaxy.

It handles really well, works nicely with my Reverso3 (also an ATC Guide and a VCC Pro) and we've dragged it over quite a few edges and the edge-rating seems to live up to it's claim. Weight is more than acceptable for the diameter too.

Again, personal opinion, but I highly recommend the Supersafe.
gfdonc
23-Oct-2008
2:24:42 PM
Beal. Low impact force is most important. Plus, good handling.
Some have complained they go furry quickly but hasn't happened to me.
Dscrunch
23-Oct-2008
2:44:08 PM
On 23/10/2008 gfdonc wrote:
>Some have complained they go furry quickly but hasn't happened to me.
>

Heard that too, but am yet to see it and have had a few over the years. Galaxy is ok but feels like a cable after using nice handling beal of the same diameter.
fish boy
23-Oct-2008
5:39:01 PM
Me just got a fresh 10.7 Sterling Mega or something. Yum. Totally not what your after though...

Sterling do run 30% more sheath material I hear, so that might be of interest.

Capt_mulch
23-Oct-2008
5:43:12 PM
Mountain Designs has 25% of all Mammut gear at the moment. Get a Mammut.

tnd
24-Oct-2008
10:52:53 AM
Mammut 10.2mm Superdry 50m, $360 - 25%, still pretty expensive!

Capt_mulch
24-Oct-2008
10:58:01 AM
On 24/10/2008 tnd wrote:
>Mammut 10.2mm Superdry 50m, $360 - 25%, still pretty expensive!

Ya pays fo whatcha get! Tho what would you want a dry rope for??
grangrump
24-Oct-2008
11:12:32 AM
On 23/10/2008 Capt_mulch wrote:
>Mountain Designs has 25% off all Mammut gear at the moment. Get a Mammut.

Not that Mulchy would be biased or anything!

Capt_mulch
24-Oct-2008
11:19:17 AM
I merely go on the fact that Mammut have been making ropes for 140 years!! Not that I've been working much for MD. Signed up for the dole today (should have done it sooner, with a wife and child and back payments I'm going from severely depressed to somewhat hopeful).
Wendy
24-Oct-2008
12:08:44 PM
Mammut make good ropes
Sterling make good ropes
Beal used to make crap ropes, but these days make good ropes.

All ropes have to meet certain standards therefore you can't really go wrong. Especially if you're not worried about weight.

Assuming this is your 1st rope, i'd get cheap and basic, you're inevitably going to thrash it and need a new one soon enough, by which time you should have picked up enough skills to be gentler on your rope and know more about what you really want out of it (which to be perfectly honest will probably be light, durable and easy handling, thus why so many people climb skinny ropes now).

Other than that, i'd go the skinnier option if you intend using the reverso 3 in autolock mode because it's a pain to use on fat ropes. External dry treament will just wear off and any drytreatment is hardly necessary unless you're looking at mountain routes. And the Supersafe is a wire cable.

There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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