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How long? 21-Aug-2008 At 11:32:21 PM Zebedee

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On 21/08/2008 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 21/08/2008 Zebedee wrote:
>>but the main advantage of this knot is that in unusual
>>loading (that is across the knot which may occur in a belay if a piece
>>fails) it is significantly stronger than an eight.
>
>I knew it was stronger, but my fading memory seems to recall that it was
>not 'significantly' so.
>
>General (old memory), thoughts that come to mind are (without checking
>some authorative source), Fig 8 reduces strength of rope used by approx
>35% and Fig 9 reduces rope strength by approx 30%.
>
I am sure that the difference in the across the knot loading is significant. For the same reason that when caving the knot used in the belay where if that piece failed, across the knot loading would occur, was always the alpine butterfly. The nine shares the advantages of the eight in being readily identifible when tied correctly. But hey what would I know.....