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Topic Date User

V+W+8 = On Belay! 8-Aug-2008 At 8:05:50 AM skink

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On 7/08/2008 glebechris wrote:
>In the picture on the websitge they don't use screwgates to the anchor.
> What's the concensus here - I've always had it drilled into me to use
>screwgates throughout the anchor.

I use clipgates at the protection end of the cordelette/sling/whatever pretty much always - they are plenty strong enough, and because they are away from you accidental unclipping is extremely unlikely. I usually slap in a screwgate at the belayer end, though could also be doubled clip-gates or independent clipgates (one on each sling if there are say two slings - to deal with crossloading issues typically). Or the belayer end is already taken care of cos I am tying in to the belay pro with the lead rope.

My philosophy is basically:

- biners which have backup (in the form of other pieces of pro) - clipgate ok

- biner which is 'mission critical' (this is invariably a powerpoint biner) - my beefiest screwgate (this is invariably a powerpoint biner) or often doubled clipgates with gates opposed

Why not just use screwgates throughout - cos they weigh a lot and are clunky, so not really a huge reason, but hey, every gram helps... (doesn't it :o). Oh, and they aren't redundant (say for the powerpoint - all eggs in one potentially defective basket, taking the paranoid pessimistic view here).

Not that my opinion matters much, however you may be more impressed by the thoughts of crazy alpinist Andy Kirkpatrick on this subject:

http://www.psychovertical.com/?screwgatecarry

also
http://www.psychovertical.com/?whichlockingkarabiner