Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic	Date	User
Self equalising anchor	30-Jul-2008 At 5:39:55 PM	skink
Message
On 30/07/2008 rolsen1 wrote: >Given a dicey belay an equalised belay will hold more than the same belay >when individually pieces are loaded. > >As for the suitability of a cordelette with groups when one person is >leading all pitches the point I would make is that if the followers and >are learning the craft then is using a suboptimal belay ok? Sure, go ahead and equalise dicey pieces. Even if there are beginners involved. But 95% of belays I build are from 3 bomber pieces, so equalising the load across them all seems to me to be an unnecessary complication (even suboptimal, dare I say).

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