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Topic Date User

Sliding X vs Cordlette. RC.com summary 30-Jul-2008 At 4:46:08 PM anthonyk

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On 30/07/2008 rod wrote:
>situation clarification: you've got a solid set of anchors established
>during a multi-pitch, belayer tied into the anchors and the climber is
>off leading with the rope clipped into the anchors as first piece?

um.. you made an anchor, belayer is clipped into it pretty close and belaying off himself, there's at least one piece thats ok for an upward force whether its part of the anchor or a separate one. i guess the leader (who has a soft spot for fried chicken and whipped cream) is up on the route somewhere and takes a big fall. for it all to come apart you'd need to have more force than your weight can hold, the back line piece to fail, all the other anchor pieces to fail and the top piece thats holding the fall to fail as well. of course there's lots of other whoopsies that could happen but overall i generally reckon its ok in terms of holding an upwards force