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Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User

Purchasing a new new rope 21-May-2008 At 8:01:04 AM hotgemini

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Ah good then tim, could you then supply me data that demonstrates that there is a direct correlation between the impact force under the UIAA factor 1.78 drop test and the impact force under a fall in the range more typically incurred in real world climbing (say 0.5)?

It is something thats been bugging me for a while and given that beal has staked its marketing dollar on impact force then in my opinion they should man up, do the testing and prove it not marketing BS.

I have other gripes with the UIAA test as well, I think additional pre-conditioning of the rope would be better, specifically more mechanical use prior to the drop testing (eg. load and unload the 80kg test load 100 times and run it 180 degress over a 12mm rod 25 times whilst under the 80kg load. THEN test the rope.

Back when I worked in a gear shop, it used to drive me mad people attempting to buy a rope based purely on the UIAA drop test data. As I mentioned, I'm not aware of any data linking FF1.78 testing to practical real world behavior (but would love to be shown some if it exists) and yet people make all sorts of stupid comparisons suggesting that one rope is superior to another based upon it.

For example Tim, Are you suggesting that I should buy a beal rope, based on its ability to be good at taking factor two falls? Is this something which you regularly do in your climbing? Is this something you'd suggest that prospective purchasers of your rope should do reguarly (and from your post, repeatedly)?

Whilst this reads a lot like an attack on Tim or Beal it really isn't meant to be, its meant to be an attack on the flawed UIAA drop test and the ever increasing volume of marketting bullshit based around it.

On a side note, on my personal ropes is a beal 10.2 and just like the two QUT beal 10.5s before it these are my thoughts. They handle nicely, wear reasonably (neither great nor terrible) and aren't a bad rope all in all.

-Adam.