BOA (HMS)Keylock Screwgate 25 10 8 kN
Steve's favourite belay screwgate.
Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found
Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.
G'day all, bought myself a 60m beal flyer II 10.2 mm rope in June last year and it has been used nearly every week-end since and also indoors. I have noticed on on end of the rop about 2 metres from the end wear on the rope. The outside of the rope has little tassles and although you can not see the core It is worn through nearly to the core. The rest of the rope is fine with only minimal wear on the rope.
The rope is really good and is the dry cover and golden dry so wasn't cheap. I want a dynamic rope that will endure the rigors of top roping and also lead climbing. Any suggestions. I was going to go for the Beal Apollo 11mm but it is not cheap.
Just cut a few metres off each end, seal ends with hot old knike, and you've still got your great original rope. It's a little shorter, but still over 50m.
I've done this twice with my 70m rope.
The tie in points, and the spot a couple/few metres out from the tie in where the rope is through the biner when falling, are the main wear spots. Short sharp falls, without much rope out, can do quite a bit of damage where the biner is. That sounds like your 'wear spot'.
This way your rope has a longer lifetime - without compromising safety at all. Just remember to check the full length of the rope regularly....... and the climber end of the rope after each fall. There is advice to change ends of the rope after each fall - especially short, sharp ones at the first bit of gear/bolt near the ground (not much rope out to absorb the energy). That's easy to do near the ground. Near the top of a long pitch it's not practical. But do check the rope where it went tight at the biner. I had one fall (15 metres up) where the fall on the biner (clean fall into space) seriously damaged the rope.
thanks mate I think I will do that. As you say it's only -2m of rope still got 58m
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