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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
Auto-Locking belay devices 20-Nov-2007 At 7:49:08 AM six-sevens
Message
IBCM9 Why not....
Warning Science Content
Its because when you catch a fall on a auto device the stop is over a much shorter period of time than a manual device which has a bit of slip. If you graph force versus time the area under the graph is the total energy absorbed. Therefore the peak force on the auto device is huge compared to the manual device. When the peak of the graph has a bigger number than the strength of the placement then that placement fails.
Thats why.

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