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Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User

cows tail 3-Nov-2007 At 11:29:10 AM hotgemini

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[quote]don't belay the second from your harness[/quote]
[quote]It is not escapable[/quote]

Not true, tie off belay device, tie back-up directly to anchor, prussic onto loaded rope, mariners hitch onto anchor, untie belay device, release some slack to put load onto mariners, remove belay device, tie off weighted climber directly to anchor in whatever suits the scenario (eg. with belay device, with munter hitch). Release mariners hitch and you're done.

Note: I agree, don't belay your second directly off your harness. However saying its inescapable isn't true.

Note: and before someone says "what if you can't reach the anchor because your cow's tail is long enough that its out of reach?", in that case, treat your cow's tail as an extension of the anchor. It'll be more complicated but once again, not impossible.