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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Poll Option Votes Graph
Figure 8 (no stopper) 10
12% 
Single Bowline (no stopper) 0
 
Double Bowline (no stopper) 2
2% 
Figure 8 (with stopper) 45
56% 
Single Bowline (with stopper) 2
2% 
Double Bowline (with stopper) 19
24% 
I just thread it a couple times untill i feel safe 1
1% 
ropes why bother 1
1% 

Topic Date User
Im Knots About Climbing 23-May-2007 At 9:01:08 AM Ronny
Message
On 23/05/2007 bomber pro wrote:
>On 22/05/2007 PreferKnitting wrote:
>>>one length of sling is worth 22kn wrap it twice around, ie double it,
>>>and it's worth 44kn, do the math !
>thats right... do the math ok, then you will understand it.
>>BomberPro, regardless of whether you are using two slings or doubling
>>over one sling, you are not
>>increasing the sling's strength. All you are doing is distributing the
>>load between the two points. Think
>>of a rope used to equalise three anchor points.
>you are wrong! being a rigger and high access stone mason, I have learned
>what all riggers know! that
>a doubled sling is worth twice as much in strength

Hey Bomb if you bothered to read what PK was saying, you would have realised that you were at cross purposes. Of course you can hang (almost) twice as much of a doubled over sling as a single length sling. But the sling itself isn't really getting any stronger. It doesn't magically pump some iron and buff-up in the doubling over process (ok now this is getting whimsical and silly). What you've done is caused the load to be distributed over 4 lengths rather than two, hence (almost) doubling the 'strength' or load carrying capacity of the system.

I forget how his was originally related to knots though...

There are 88 replies to this topic.

 

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