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Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author

Lace or velcro

bent

2-May-2007
11:06:35 AM

If I climb on trad multi pitch in the low twenties am I really gonna notice the difference between the way laces or velcro hold my shoes on?
I've got laces now but want to go for the speed of velcro but only if it's not gonna feel like crap?

Stuey

2-May-2007
11:08:56 AM

On 2/05/2007 bent wrote:
>I've got laces now but want to go for the speed of velcro but only if
>it's not gonna feel like crap?

The way it feels is more likely gonna depend on the shoe and how it fits you, rather than the method of closure.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

2-May-2007
11:10:45 AM

... and whether the multipitch climbing is offwidth/cracks or face etc

bent

2-May-2007
11:14:24 AM

Which suits which - cracks & laces?? face & Velcro?

dalai

2-May-2007
11:15:05 AM

Personally, for multi pitch trad I would suggest the lace ups over velcros.

Lace ups can be adjusted for the conditions better i.e. hot long day feet swelling - full laces can be loosened to accommodate this fluctuation. Where as velcros need to be sized super tight when new to handle stretching of the toe box. So can be too unbearably tight and even tighter in the heat if keeping on over a long period.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

2-May-2007
11:18:54 AM

On 2/05/2007 bent wrote:
>Which suits which - cracks & laces?? face & Velcro?
Yes; ... but I may be talking out of my cordelette loop as I don't own velcros ...

Stuey

2-May-2007
11:25:56 AM

Again, like I said, it depends on the shoe. There some awesome face climbing shoes with laces (Sportiva Miuras/5.10 Pinks/Greens etc), there are some great comfy all day shoes/crack climbing shoes with velcro (5.10 Ascents etc). Some people like to climb cracks with flexible slippers. Its all personal choice

The only thing I can think of is if yoy climb alot of offwidth involving full foot torqueing/jamming you may catch the tags on a velcro and peel them open so you may want a lace up.

bent

2-May-2007
11:36:14 AM

Cheers Stuey - a buying i will go

james

3-May-2007
12:10:27 AM

velcro shoes have a habit of undoing if you trying to crack climb in them

kieranl

3-May-2007
8:19:35 PM

For multi-pitch I usually use my lace up Boreal Aces (multi-resoles) and use my velcro slippers for single extreme pitches (about 20 in my case). However I usually take my shoes off at belays in any case and velcro makes that much easier so if the stances are small I might take the velcro slippers.

TLockwood

3-May-2007
8:24:30 PM

Personally i love velcros for anything, probably mainly for the convenience, i use them for multi pitch, although like kieran i take them off at belays. i havnt noticed to much trouble with them in cracks, torquing (spelling?) my feet. At the moment i've burnt out a pair of 5.10 UFO's i've had for the last 5years with multiple resoles and am trying to save for another pair of velcros, not specifically 5.10, maybe scarpa, but im open to any options. I can appreciate why people dislike velcro's for certain reasons, but i love them.
just my 2c

kieranl

3-May-2007
8:28:29 PM

Hey Tim, how's it going? Your dad managed some good moves the other week. It was soooo funny him muttering about how hard it was and then the sunny expression when he found the jugs he'd missed. And so much fun both of us watching Norm follow.

TLockwood

3-May-2007
8:45:31 PM

Whereabouts?
Norm complaining about how hard the moves where and how you made it look so easy, im sure you really did.

There are 13 messages in this topic.