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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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shoe upgrade
12:08:46 PM
Despite a resole (after Buffalo granite shredding) my little brother's old Boreal Vectors (inherited) have just about had it. They have stretched so much that my feet slide around inside them, and I randomly pop off edges.

So I'm looking at upgrading. I have been climbing in a pair of borrowed Sportiva Climb -- squeezing into a 41 has improved my confidence a lot. But I am looking at buying a pair of shoes soon. Ideal characteristics: good for smearing, edging, jamming, not too comfy, but not too rough either, as I like to do multipitch. Laces -- definately. Not really after a stiff shoe like Aces, maybe something a bit softer.

I have been looking at some Scarpas -- I think they might have been either Inferno or Helix -- can anyone recommend these? Any other models I might want to consider? I'm not attempting anything above about grade 20 at the moment. Your recommendations would be appreciated!


Vaughan :-)

12:33:19 PM
G'day Vaughan

My 2cents worth:

I bought my Miuras cos they can do all of these things well. Excellent jamming from a sport shoe. But beware the dreaded second toe. If they don't fit, well, see my last post. The La Sportiva Mythos are a great shoe for multipitching, and unlined on a slip last so not too stiff. They're smear-a-rific. They will stretch heaps though.

Scarpa Dominators are more a sport shoe like the Miuras, but not too uncomfotable. I liked em anyway but none in my size (46). Get'em at Paddy's. Exxy though. If you have wide feet, particularly in the heel, and plenty of moolah, you might want to try one of the 5.10 models - the Anasazi lace-up is really good for people with wide feet, allegedly, and not as stiff as the new Mesa model. Ascent good for mutlipitch and bouldering.

I've tried all these shoes and liked 'em all. Take all of this with a grain of salt, given that I just bought the wrong bloody shoe for my foot.

12:38:48 PM
Check out the latest Rock mag Vaughan.. its got a shoe review which is very informative. That said you really have to get out there and try some on. A Scarpa might be perfect for someone else (they usually fit people with thin feet btw) but they may not suit you.
2:07:50 PM
Hey Vaughan,

whatever you decide on I'd recommend that you buy them from

Very cheap shoes. 1 week delivery via ups.

Should get you around for a drink some time soon.

6:02:05 PM
Thanks everyone for the tips. I tried on some La Sportiva shoes but they were mega painful -- just too narrow for my feet unfortunately. I know painful is expected in a more technical shoe, but you have to draw the line somewhere... by the time the Miuras are a small enough size to not have any air pockets in them, the pain in the toes is excruciating. I had the same problems with Mythos -- too pointy at the toes end. The Climbs I'm using at the moment are slightly wider in the toe, but I don't think they're all that technical, they're just too flat. The Five Tens I looked at were too damned expensive. And most of the other shoes I looked at had that "beginner" look about them -- stiff, flat lasts, etc. -- not very technical.
So I'm going with Scarpa Inferno, they're just that bit wider, and the fit is very tight, yet comfortable enough. Anyways, enough of the commentary -- time to go try them out!
6:05:13 PM
Good choice IMHO but you will get red feet...
11:55:57 AM
Tried my new shoes yesterday and they work a treat! Great for edging and smearing. I did have some second-toe issues Kyle -- I think this unavoidable with well-fitting climbing shoes -- but I put a thin bit of tape around the hot spots and it was fine. I see what you mean about red feet dodgy!
Lisa c
4:56:09 PM
i just got a pair of la sportiva mythos about a month ago, i think they r great! they were soo painfully tight to start off with but now they are just comfortably tight - if you know what i mean!!! they are really nice to climb in

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