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What to Look for in a climbing rope?

who_me?

29-Nov-2006
12:05:40 PM

Hi,
I'm looking at buying my first climbing rope. What should I be considering when looking for a new rope?

mousey

29-Nov-2006
12:18:07 PM

it should be quite strong

billk

29-Nov-2006
12:27:18 PM

On 29/11/2006 mousey wrote:
>it should be quite strong

For a first rope it should probably be quite cheap, because you might trash its sheath fairly quickly. (I'm assuming if it's your first rope, you'll be doing a reasonable amount of top roping, which can be hard on ropes when they get run over rough edges etc.) At least, don't go and buy some mega strong rope that costs a fortune.

If you get a thicker rope, say 10.5mm, the wear and tear gets spread around more. I wouldn't recommend anything under 10mm.

nmonteith

29-Nov-2006
12:30:44 PM

An old similar topic that might be useful
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=1092&Replies=1

Eduardo Slabofvic

29-Nov-2006
12:44:23 PM

Try and get one that has two ends, they come in handy. Also get one that has a middle, as thats the
other handy bit.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

29-Nov-2006
12:47:58 PM

Yeah; there are lots of items if you do a 'search' (left hand side of screen), on ropes.
(This is where the 'sticky posts' function for mods comes in)?

Additional info to answer your question regarding a 1st rope.

I would get a 60 metre length unless something else (50m) was on a particularly good special.

I would match belay device to the rope diameter.

I would not worry about getting a dry treated rope.

rodw

29-Nov-2006
1:50:44 PM

Make sure it matches ya harness and shoes too.

martyn

30-Nov-2006
8:51:47 PM

don't take any notice of them. Get 60m 10.5-11mm Sterling/Beal/Roca (depending on your budget). Don't worry about dry treated unless you are planning on snow/ice climbing which I hope you are not. Enjoy

JamesMc

30-Nov-2006
9:08:59 PM

Get a good one - your life may depend on it.

Seriously though, you need to decide first whether you are going to climb with single or double ropes, or either. That will tell you how fat it has to be. Then decide how long you want it - I prefer 50m, though 60m is the fashion these days. Depends on what you can afford, how much weight you want to carry to the cliff, and how long pitches you climb.

Having decided that, I just buy what ever's on special.

One trap to watch out for is the twist of the outer fibres. The bundles of fibres that make up the mantle should be twisted in such a way that the very outer fibres run parallel to the rope. Some cheap ropes do not have this twist. It makes a huge difference to the abrasion resistance of the rope.

James Mc

HM33

30-Nov-2006
9:56:50 PM

On 30/11/2006 JamesMc wrote:
>
>One trap to watch out for is the twist of the outer fibres. The bundles
>of fibres that make up the mantle should be twisted in such a way that
>the very outer fibres run parallel to the rope. Some cheap ropes do not
>have this twist. It makes a huge difference to the abrasion resistance
>of the rope.

can you explain this further? how can the outside fibre possibly run parrallel to the rope?

wyt91t

30-Nov-2006
11:46:22 PM

make sure it dont have those stupid markings in the middle cause just in case you have to cut some the end of it will no longer be in the middle.10mm max 10.5 good shealth good knotability.and make it a fifty there much better and lighter to take anywhere.unless you do multipitchs then i would go the 60.

nmonteith

1-Dec-2006
9:09:33 AM

On 30/11/2006 wyt91t wrote:
>.and make it a fifty there much better
>and lighter to take anywhere.unless you do multipitchs then i would go
>the 60.

Unless you plan to go sport climbing - because there are heaps of routes 30m long in thre Bluies and the
Grampians that require a 60m to get down.

JamesMc

2-Dec-2006
11:39:15 AM

On 30/11/2006 steve wrote:
>On 30/11/2006 JamesMc wrote:
>>
>>One trap to watch out for is the twist of the outer fibres. The bundles
>>of fibres that make up the mantle should be twisted in such a way that
>>the very outer fibres run parallel to the rope. Some cheap ropes do
>not
>>have this twist. It makes a huge difference to the abrasion resistance
>>of the rope.
>
>can you explain this further? how can the outside fibre possibly run parrallel
>to the rope?

Steve, I've emailed you a PDF that should explain.

JamesMc

HM33

2-Dec-2006
1:43:32 PM

thanks james

andyR

5-Dec-2006
6:29:23 PM

FYI If you're buying ropes in Nati, Phil is moving into only stocking Edelrid. Nothing against Sterling, great ropes, but they're now pricing themselves out. eg. I picked up a 60m Edelrid 10.5mm for around $270 on Sunday. The same Sterling rope - well, 60m at 10.5mm or 10.2mm (I can't remember which) was $399. A big difference. I agree, don't go for dry treatment unless you really need it. Not too much chance of rain in the Gramps and Araps at the moment. Andy

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