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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Topic Date User

First ice protection 9-Sep-2006 At 4:12:22 PM Andrew_M

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Yeah, what Paulie said.

BD turbo express(?...the ones with the fold out handle, whatever they're called) are great for both alpine and water ice. For short/easy pitches of alpine ice you shouldn't need more than 3 or 4, assuming you can get other forms of gear in as well. Get at least one 22cm screw for belays and for making v-threads. You could go a further 22cm if you want, or a couple of 16/17cm to save weight. 17cm (or I think BD does 16cm ones now?) are standard for water ice, and if you get screws with the handle, they're sooooo much easier to place quickly. You probably don't want to go any shorter than that if you're going to be using them for alpine. Grivel screws are very good too but they are a pain in the arse to rack.