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Topic Date User

SRENE anchors may go the way of the dinosaur 15-Mar-2006 At 4:54:31 PM uwhp510

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Well, having tried to do the full 2d analysis which takes into account the lateral shifting of the knot towards the shorter leg (which is really hard since its non-linear) and having considered the issue; having really stretchy cordalette will help a little bit (apart from the energy absorption aspect) because the knot shifting will be more pronounced but this effect will be, in most if not all physical situations, very small. This is because its a geometric effect and so is limited by how much the geometry can change, whereas the unequal length = unequal tension, is based on internal forces within the cordalette. The sliding x obviates this by notionally creating equal tension over the whole sling (of course limited by friction in the biners).

> Doesn't matter whether there is a knot.
>Its just angles and is not really affected by stretch/extension unless
>the two pieces are sitting next to each other with no V effect.

This is almost completely wrong.

>The greatest equalising element is the knot.

What does this mean?

I know I'm not putting my money where my mouth is but I haven't given up trying. The two piece thing is for computational simplicity, and the results will, I imagine, generalise to n legs.

I reckon cordalettes are a pain in the arse (to carry) but I'm not trying to tell people not to use them based on this info, I am just saying you should be aware of what is going on when you are setting up an anchor.

But maybe its too complicated for some people who want an easy, one size fits all proscription for their anchors.