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Topic Date User

SRENE anchors may go the way of the dinosaur 10-Mar-2006 At 12:56:40 AM belayslave

Message

Neil et al.
checkout
http://www.spadout.com/rock_climbing/wiki/index.php/Anchor
for some very rudimentary pics and explanation.

I think someone said you can only ever use 2 pieces in a sliding x setup, not entirely true as it's very
possible to (as i was showing someone just earlier this week) use 3 (or more) pieces. Though the more
pieces you add the less smooth the self equalisation is. Possible to avoid this by using two slings
attached to 3 or 4 pieces.
It's similar idea to a standard SARENE setup, but no knots, just two twists... hard to explain. i might get
around to taking some pics for people.

Edit : well got a bit excited and found another website
"2. The x-sling system (John Long) although still widely used are discouraged by authorities. Although is
equalises excellently any failure of an anchor will cause shock load on the other anchor. The cordelette
system is much safer. In fact a duo-cordelette tied in 7mm have a breaking strain exceeding 23kN and a
duo tied in 5.5mm Spectra approximated 30kN. A brilliant system if you consider that this anchor should
never experience anything above 12kN in any normal fall."