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Rapping on a singled dynamic rope

mitch46and2

29-Nov-2015
3:14:18 PM

Silly question I guess but anyway, I want to set up a rap rope to do multiple routes on same wall that's around 50 metres. I only have two dynamic ropes on me atm, one 50m and one 60. Will there be enough friction in a singled dynamic to abseil Using an atc with a Prussick? Rope is a little over 10mm. And/or is it ok to just use both ropes together considering they are different diameter and length, one is a skinny 9mm. ??

Thanks hope that makes sense

patto

29-Nov-2015
4:15:37 PM

On 29/11/2015 mitch46and2 wrote:
>Silly question I guess but anyway, I want to set up a rap rope to do multiple
>routes on same wall that's around 50 metres. I only have two dynamic ropes
>on me atm, one 50m and one 60. Will there be enough friction in a singled
>dynamic to abseil Using an atc with a Prussick? Rope is a little over 10mm.
>And/or is it ok to just use both ropes together considering they are different
>diameter and length, one is a skinny 9mm. ??
>
>Thanks hope that makes sense

That all sounds fine.

If you are concerned about having not enough friction then learn techniques to add more. But the fact that you are asking these questions may mean that that you need to learn a bit more before attempting all this.

Joining ropes.of 'significantly' different diameter may require a different type of knot depending on what you normally use. In this case though the ropes I wouldn't say the ropes are 'significantly' different.

E. Wells

29-Nov-2015
4:39:50 PM

single rope is fine. A dynamic may want to shoot through your device a bit if your bouncing. The weight of 50m of rope beneath you will provide possibly more friction than you would like at the top though as you descend that will lessen. A simple way to add friction as you go is to wrap it around your leg/foot as required. Enjoy your climbs and use adequate rope protection on edge for abseil. A good strip of carpet offcut is often enough.

mitch46and2

29-Nov-2015
5:18:54 PM

Beautiful thanks guys. Cheers

stuart h

29-Nov-2015
5:53:14 PM

Rapping on a single 10mm with a standard device should be no issue, unless perhaps it is very steep. If you unexpectedly find you need more friction then running the rope around your leg is a quick fix. If you know you need more friction (or suspect you will) with a plate/tube style device, you can clip two biners in to the rappel. Clip both biners to both the belay loop and the loop of rope through the device and you should enjoy a slower rappel. (On the other hand, if you clip the second biner to the rope but not your belay loop, you will have a faster rappel, so, you know, checking stuff is a good idea when abseiling & so on...)

Miguel75

29-Nov-2015
8:32:10 PM

Mitch, are you a Tool fan? ;)

Rapping on two different rope diameters is fine; I've done a few raps on a ~10mm and 7mm dynamic ropes a few times now, it was fine. From memory we used a double fishermans to join them. As has been said, if you need extra friction run the bight through two lockers on your belay loop.

mikllaw

30-Nov-2015
7:31:15 AM

probably better to rap on them doubled as you can pull them if necessary
If your anchor is a sling, differential rope stretch could cut it

IdratherbeclimbingM9

30-Nov-2015
10:13:48 AM

On 29/11/2015 mitch46and2 wrote:
>I want to set up a rap rope to do multiple routes on same wall that's around 50 metres. I only have two dynamic ropes on me atm, one 50m and one 60. Will there be enough friction in a singled dynamic to abseil Using an atc with a Prussick? Rope is a little over 10mm.

>And/or is it ok to just use both ropes together considering they are different diameter and length, one is a skinny 9mm. ??
>
Hmm.
So you intend leaving a fixed 10mm abseil line while you climb other routes on the cliff, and you only have two dynamic ropes.
Does this mean you are leading* on the single skinny 9mm?

*~> that would potentially be more of a concern to me than abseiling a single strand (regardless of its diameter) line, depending on a number of other factors like route directness / rope management, rock type, etc.

There are 8 messages in this topic.