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Topic Date User
Which auto block device, Reverso 4 or ATC Guide? 4-Jul-2013 At 3:43:01 PM pecheur
On 4/07/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>Also, it requires less energy to carry a gri gri up with you on lead than
>it does to suck a pitch length of 10mm rope through a reverso. Trust me
>on this.
>For multipitch (and any other "belay from the top") routes;
>If second is competent at the grade and certain to not arse around on
>the end of the rope;
>-when using double ropes, reverso/guide on the anchors is good but normal
>atc on the harness is adequate

>-when using single rope, gri gri on the anchor is good but gri gri or
>normal atc on the harness is adequate
>However, if the second is likely to flap and dangle like a useless lump
>of shit and has no clue about pulling on gear to spare their leader from
>death by boredom;
>-when using double ropes, take a guide/reverso

>-when using single rope, take a gri gri
>-also carry an ipod to block out the whining and "take take take!", and
>maybe a good book
>I don't know why they still make non-reverso belay plates, you'd have
>to be an idiot to buy one.
I agreed with everything, except for the last bit. Sport climbers and permanent gym climbers should have non-autoblocks. Non autoblocks ones are cheaper and lighter, WAY too many noobs atm have Reverso 4s who'll NEVER use them in autoblock mode, complete waste of cash. My regular climbing partner's awesome but never wants to lead trad and is unlikely to lead multipitch sport without a more competent climber with her, she's got the new Guide, she'd be better off with the XP, save ten bucks and carry less weight.

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