|On 2/07/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Some fair points have been made there by DD.
>Regarding "ATC type device", if you mean basic sticht plate type design,
>yes, they have been around a while, since the early 70's if my memory serves
>me correctly, though kieranl might be able to nail it tighter ;-/
>From what I have seen, most people seldom (if ever?), use a Guide or Reverso
>in autoblock configuration*, but instead simply in tube-belay mode, and
>yes the anodising wears/scratches.
Lots of people use them in autoblock mode, ajfclark and I at least ;p If you're not going to use them in autoblock mode, a lot of sport climbers seem to have them (WTF), get a Verso or ATC-XP, lighter and cheaper again.
>Regarding the original post;
>>which is smoother?
>This is more closely related to rope diameter. The thinner (and newer),
>the rope, the smoother they slide through. Note; this can be a negative
>feature if doing a freehanging abseil especially if wearing a heavy pack(!),...
>when additional friction techniques may need to be applied.
Meh, doesn't really matter if you have them teeth down you should be getting enough friction even with a pack, I rap with mine teeth up when unloaded.