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Are my helium biners busted |
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18-Jun-2013 11:44:21 PM
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A couple of my Wild Country helium biners have stopped springing closed. The spring still feels strong if I only open it 1/3 of the way, but if I open it any further they "stick" at half open. The two that are not working are the ones I use to rack stuff on my harness - they probably get the most use of all my heliums. Are my biners destined for early retirement??
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18-Jun-2013 11:48:26 PM
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A small dollip of oil on each hole will see it good as new.
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18-Jun-2013 11:50:53 PM
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Or you may have squished the sides of the wire gate together a bit, check for clearance between the wire and the tip of the spine where it mounts.
A small tweakage if has been bent too narrow.
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19-Jun-2013 5:15:54 PM
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Ah yes, I see now. The gate had been pushed over to the side a bit and was catching, as you describe, where it mounts to the carabiner body. Bending it back seems to have worked.
Thanks.
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19-Jun-2013 5:18:35 PM
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I disagree.
They look terrible. The only safe thing to do is to give them to me for "destruction" next time I see you.
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20-Jun-2013 10:16:11 AM
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WD40 is your friend.
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20-Jun-2013 10:34:11 AM
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On 20/06/2013 maxdacat wrote:
>WD40 is your friend.
No it's not. It's terrible as a lubricant as it attracts all kinds of grit.
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20-Jun-2013 11:13:05 AM
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On 20/06/2013 ajfclark wrote:
>No it's not. It's terrible as a lubricant as it attracts all kinds of
>grit.
Agreed. Mr Sheen for all but the most stubborn tasks and includes a lovely lemon scent...
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20-Jun-2013 11:20:16 AM
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I agree with dalai. The Mr Sheen product is silicon based and unlike the oil based suggestions, doesn't attract dirt to gunk up the works.
It also works well on motorcycle helmet visors to debug splats on them, lubricate their action, and at this time of year helps prevent them fogging up. Give a good followup wipe with a clean cloth to remove excess from the interior though, as I doubt it would do your eyesight any good, especially if wiping away perspiration etc with a gloved hand causes any to get in your eyes.
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20-Jun-2013 12:07:32 PM
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I would be very conservative in the quantity of lubrication used, for fear of having it contaminate a rope or sling that was clipped through the 'biner.
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20-Jun-2013 1:07:33 PM
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On 20/06/2013 ajfclark wrote:
>On 20/06/2013 maxdacat wrote:
>>WD40 is your friend.
>
>No it's not. It's terrible as a lubricant as it attracts all kinds of
>grit.
pah....grit schmitt!
that's what the cam lube lobby would have you believe :)
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20-Jun-2013 1:17:00 PM
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I'm from the pinball table lobby actually. It's also flammable which can cause problems in some environments.
Turning this Into this
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21-Jun-2013 11:23:54 AM
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Petzl reccomed NOT using WD40 as apparenty it can dry out the spring (solid gates). CRC or RP7 is a great substitute. Just wipe off excess and wont attract dirt etc, unless your desert climbing
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21-Jun-2013 12:21:14 PM
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On 20/06/2013 ajfclark wrote:
>I'm from the pinball table lobby actually.
Adams Family, Star Trek, Getaway....i've played the best....didn't know that's what they look like on the inside :p
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21-Jun-2013 1:30:45 PM
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On 21/06/2013 maxdacat wrote:
>Adams Family, Star Trek, Getaway....i've played the best....didn't know that's what they look like on the inside :p
I've played quite a few myself and have a 1976 vintage electromechanical table in my spare room that I've been repairing for a few years (it actually all works now except the tilt mechanism is a bit generous).
Those pictures are of steppers in is pre-1977 electromechanical pinball tables. Looking at the left picture, on the other side of the mount there's a toothed wheel about as big as the brown circle. Each time the coil actuates, the oddly shaped, nearer brown disc would turn one step (the round one is fixed), connecting two different sets of contacts on the two brown discs. So it could have 5 different values. To prevent it counting past the top value, the last tooth would be missing on the toothed wheel. Does that make sense?
In modern machines it'd be a single variable in the program.
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