New DMM "Belay Master 2" screwgate. I-beam construction and plastic clip. (State of the Art!)
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I recently found this tip (the last one on the thread) on Mountain project and thought it worthwhile;
I read the recommended post, then the whole page.
I reckon the only thing on it of real value was
>Make sure you practice this, actually hanging,
half a dozen times at your local climbing gym cliff.
Gym? wtf? ~> needed to fix that ...
Heh, heh, heh.
Seriously; assembling a portaledge in a real use environment is pretty straight forward after the process has been well dialed on some practise cliffs beforehand.
No matter how well it works in your backyard / tree / boulder, (or gym); it is completely different at a hanging belay where gravity works against you, and you have nothing solid to brace off when required; and as the link indicated, add time pressure with impending darkness/rain and-
... learn to like clusterjams!
The recommended post does actually make good sense, however I'd suggest mostly only to someone already initiated into the dark art(!) as it wouldn't be clear to a novice trying to envisage the sequence description.
I did like your last tip thread link though, and it happens to be by the same author...
I reckon you're right M9. My buddy and I hung from a cricket batting cage in a Bentleigh park for a few hours getting our system down. We received a few weird looks from passer-bys...
I really like Mark Hudon's hero loop suggestion from a solo set up point of view. I spent a few hours hanging off the top of Boogie til you puke, by myself, trying to set up my ledge in the rain. The results weren't quite what I was hoping for;) I like the idea of the hero loop and will give it a shot.
On 14/05/2013 Miguel75 wrote:
>I really like Mark Hudon's hero loop suggestion from a solo set up point of view.
Yep that was a good tip, and especially if using a double portaledge due the reachy* aspect involved in managing it on the wall.
*I have a single and although more manageable, it can still be difficult in certain situations.
Instead of requiring enough slack to pendule (while facing the wall), to either end and set things, unless I am in a corner I find it easier to swing the ledge across (flat-vertical), in front between me and the wall.
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