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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
Breaking a biner 4-Mar-2013 At 2:09:30 PM BBSR
Message
If I understand correctly, then the situation you are talking is where loading the carabiner, would make it want to bend around the minor axis. Eg both the gate side and the spine, would want to bend in towards the rock (so that the profile of the carabiner would no longer be straight).

In general I would think you want the biner to be in pure tension. When you start to bend things, it places uneven stresses across the cross sections of them ( this is essentially why an open gate biner is much weaker, it has a larger bending component).

In a practical sense, I guess it probably depends on the biner and the bulge as to whether or not it can withstand it. I wouldn't think the biners are tested for this sort of loading, so I'd definitely avoid it where possible. I suppose you could thread a sling around the ringbolt and clip with a carabiner? But that could have it's own issues (bolt not smooth, or narrow radius etc), might end up worse.

I've worried about the same thing, and I'd probably do the same as you (put a locker on it).

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