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Topic Date User
Breaking a biner 4-Mar-2013 At 12:29:20 PM JMK
It is orientated along the long axis. It is also not a question of open vs closed as the gate is keeping it closed. The bulge of the rock pushes the Biner against the rock and in a fall the weight would apply to the spine of the biner as it tries to lever the bolt out.

I have seen this 3 times now and always used a screwgate believing that keeping the biner closed can only help. This obviously only happens with poor bolt placement. In the case of the route on sat the bolt shoul be 5cm lower or 30 cm higher.

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