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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
anchor testing rig 15-Oct-2010 At 11:24:35 AM GPage
Message
The other thing to take into account is the type of force applied. This type of rig applies static force, which in my opinion would probably allow a higher test rating than dynamic force( involves acceleration). This opinion is based on the fact that it would allow the metal to deform over a longer period of time thus allowing it to stretch rather than tear.
After going over my calculations i was actually right origionally to say that my calc of a 3mm wall was about 85kn( 83.267) total for the rig.The 90kn calc was inbetween the 2.(i miss read my notes)

Manufacturers specs would have a pressure surface- 2.21829 inch2 - 1000psi=9.9428549kn
3mm wall -ps- 1.857723 inch2 - 1000psi=8.3267157kn

I do have video documentation,but am unable to load them at this point as my computer was worked on recently and am having trouble finding the program disk.
All biners were in good order most had seen extremely minimal use( mate bought them and hardly climbed), all puchased new about 2003/04 except faders alloy screw i'm guessing 2000/01 had more use but not significantly worn.

Faders steel screwgate 34kn-(OG 12kn)-( standard issue toprope biner)- significant stretch after 4000psi- failure at approx 7100psi- failure due to gate key pin extraction. Held 2400psi after fail.

Kong hms alloy screw(keylock) 22kn-(OG 8kn) Significant stretch after 2000psi- failure 6100 psi-failure due to keylock sidewall blowout- held 2000psi after failure.

Petzl spirit keylock 23kn-(OG 9.5kn)- significant stretch after 2400psi- failure at 5500psi- failure due to keylock fail causing terminal spine failure.

Faders pearshape alloy screwgate 20kn(OG 6kn)- significant stretch after 2400psi-failure at 5600psi- terminal failure at spine,gate mech stayed intact.Gate pin quite bent would have failed soon after.

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