Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found
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|Belaying the leader directly off the anchor.
||6-Aug-2012 At 10:04:50 AM
|On 4/08/2012 Cliff D wrote:
>FWIW, I belay leaders from my harness; but belay climbers seconding a pitch
>from an equalised multi-point anchor when I think its useful.
>I understand that the ACMG recommendations are not unique and are based
>on research; and that European guiding associations also endorse these
>recommendations; and its a fairly common general practice in the European
>Alps to see climbers using this technique on climbs with bolted anchors.
>The recommendations likely reflect the findings of engineering studies
>that evaluated the effectiveness of various belay approaches/techniques
>during high factor falls. The studies' conclusions included the prediction
>that long high-factor falls will often result in the belayer being unable
>to arrest a long high FF load (i.e., drop the leader).
>Simon's guide has a sensational pic with the leader and belayer dangling
>after a fall with the back of the belayer's head tucked under a prominent
>bulge (on Common Knowledge).
In this situation the belayer could be suspended further down from their belay anchor, maybe a few meters in a hanging belay.
>IMHO, belaying leaders from one's harness is more suited to trad climbing
>and the Australian context.
>That notwithstanding, I have concerns about the recommendations in the
>context of ice climbing, as falls (although relatively rare) are often
>long and ice screws are typically less than bombproof.
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