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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Topic Date User

Help a chap out 6-Jun-2012 At 10:05:50 AM crazyjohn

Message

On 5/06/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>I'm pretty sure the chaps are gunning for mostly free leading. I reckon
>the bare bones setup is 2 daisies and 1.5 ets for the leader, 1 daisy and
>1 et for the second (using that weird yosemite jugging technique which
>I dislike). Don't forget that Fantini's setup on Ozy was famously 1 daisy,
>1x4 step and 1x2 step (homemade) aiders.....didn't slow him down none.

If you are free climbing the leader does not need daisies or ets. I never used them. If you are freeing or french freeing you lead with a ATC guide or Gri-Gri, pro-traxion, and a jumar. On one free ascent of El Cap the leader climbed a pitch with this set up, set up the hauling system and freed the haul bag, then put the second on guide-mode belay and hauled and belayed at the same time. It worked out pretty good.

You can also lead with a tiny tag line and use this to pull up the haul line and hauling gear. I think tagging up gear is only necessary on the really hard pitches.