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Topic Date User

Help a chap out 6-Jun-2012 At 9:39:39 AM crazyjohn

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On 5/06/2012 One Day Hero wrote:

>I've always thought that fixing routes off the deck then sleeping on the
>ground is a bit wang. That whole thing people do on the Salathe where they
>jug and haul up a bunch of tatty fixed ropes on the first third doesn't
>even seem like they're properly climbing the route.

You mean "people" like Royal Robbins, Tom Frost and Chuck Pratt who fixed to heart ledge on the first ascent? It would have been interesting to watch you stand up at the 50th anniversary party of the Salathe wall in Yosemite last year and tell Royal and Tom how "wang" they were. Have you hauled up freeblast? Your advice about fixing is fairly "wang". Its done on nearly every big wall anywhere. In the rare times that a big wall is climbed WITHOUT fixing, then it is usually mentioned.

Hey Olbert! Be careful of ODH big wall advice. He is slipping poison in with the good stuff.

Also. Olbert! WTF are you going to climb in Yosemite? :) You are not going up The Nose with a ropeman and one set of jugs. Exactly which routes are you planning on doing so you can get good advice? There is a massive difference in tactics between climbing the routes like the East But of El Cap and the Nose. Its a bit strange that you have not told us yet... ;)