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Topic Date User

Help a chap out 5-Jun-2012 At 3:30:43 PM Olbert

Message

As for the leader needing jumars, the reasons for seem to boil down to:

- You need one for hauling

- It's good to have your own set up so you dont have to keep switching between the two.

- Fixing lines beforehand to jumar up the first few pitches (good to both have jumars)

My thoughts:

- The leader wants to minimise his weight as much as possible so carrying two jumars and a couple of daisies is a lot compared to one micro ascender (Ropeman) for hauling.

- Having only one set of jumars,daisy chain, etriers is lighter. I don't imagine that transferring them over at the belay (which may not happen on every pitch if we block lead) would take that long - as somebody mentioned, if you mark your preferred hole on the daisy chain with a bit of tape then it really shouldn't take too long. We will be doing popular routes at the popular time of the year so we will most likely be behind people anyway, so speed is not much of an issue.

That leaves jugging pre-fixed lines to start the route. This would mean that we are quite a lot slower in doing with only one pair of jumars as we can only go one at a time.

At the moment I'm still going with having one pair of jumars between us, the leader having a micro ascender for hauling, though I am prepared to be convinced that it takes to long and too much stuffing around for jugging pre-fixed lines and that it transfer over at the belay takes longer than the 30 seconds I think it does.

We have thought about this, we have read the books and we aren't gumbies (not too sure about the last one).