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Topic Date User

Help a chap out 4-Jun-2012 At 9:20:24 AM crazyjohn

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On 3/06/2012 Olbert wrote:
>On 3/06/2012 crazyjohn wrote:
>>Dude. You absolutely need two pairs of Jumars to climb big walls in the
>>valley.
>
>Why do both parties need jumars?
I am not sure what you want to climb but EVERY big wall will require two sets of Jumars for the reasons already given such as jugging fixed lines, hauling etc. What you should do is crack open any big wall book for starters and have a look at what is actually involved in hauling up the necessities of life for 3 or more days on a cliff. Think about the logistics. If you are swapping leads on a 1000 metre cliff this means that you need to jug 500 meters of rope.

Think of this after practicing your first 50 meters of jugging! My wife could not do 3 pullups but she jugged 1000 meters on el cap because of good technique. Thats what you are aiming for. You will want to streamline every process (not just jugging) as much as possible. You will want to get your own set of Jumars and figure out what jugging system works best for you. Figure out the EXACT length of slings, etriers, that work best for you. You will want them setup permanently on your harness. I guarantee you will do things different then your bro and it will be good to have your own setup you dont have to continually reconfigure at each pitch.

Big walling is HARD WORK. Most people fail. Do yourself a favor and avoid the major obvious screw ups. If you can afford to fly over to yosemite, you can afford to buy another set of jugs and spend the time to know how to use them.