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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User

trad + grigri 1-Mar-2012 At 3:49:21 AM rightarmbad

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Sounds to me like M9 and co have already successfully belayed heavier climbers on the route in question.
You already own them a cam each.

Have you considered that if you are pulling up heaps of slack to clip that maybe you are not clipping sensible?
If a ground fall is a possibility, don't clip at full reach, clip at your hip, you need pull no rope to clip then.

I am always heavier than others I climb with, sometimes double their weight if they are a small girl.
I use the various methods suggested here.
The only time I have touched down was because I didn't anchor my belayer when I should have.

A different device would have made no difference and if I had of chosen a Gri Gri, then I would have let the small possibility of the device opening when it hit the first bit of gear into the picture.

The history of you experiencing no Gri Gri failures in this mode says nothing about the next time, only the past lucky ones.
Now please tell me that you understand that it is well known that sometimes a Gri Gri will not auto lock, it truly is auto assist and the makers acknowledge this, and that the makers also warn of the potential of the device to fail if it hits the first draw.

And I fall on trad, if I didn't trust my gear enough to do so, I wouldn't step onto any route, regardless of whether I thought I would fall or not.
Unlike most, my highest grades were climbed on gear, not bolts.