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Can I get an opinion re: helmets

conando

8-Nov-2011
9:25:28 PM

Had my first outdoor climbing experience over the weekend which was great up until after 2 runs the guy who we got a ride with fell leading, popped a couple bits of gear and cracked his head and poured a couple pints of blood over my mate who was belaying him. Unfortunately for him he had forgotten to put on his helmet.

This was obviously a bit eye openning and highlighted that I need a helmet (but thankfully didn't put me off)
My question is whether a good bucket type bike helmet can make an adequate climbing helmet.
I've heard things pro and against. Some say they're all good, a bit heavier but will save your skull. I've also heard that bike helmets aren't designed to take the same types of impact as in climbing.
Thoughts?
Also want an opinion on buying second hand (obviously if you are confident it hasn't taken any falls or impacts)

Any opinions would be much appreciated.
Cheers

tariadamar

8-Nov-2011
9:36:41 PM

i would say shop around you can pick up some climbing hemets for as low as 60 bucks. as for second hand. i would say yes as long as the helmet looks in good condition.


rodw

8-Nov-2011
9:37:47 PM

Get a proper climbing, thats what they are designed for...buy a new one too...you will know its history and it will last forever so a good purchase...

...the other alternative save a few bucks and buy a less than optimal helmet and crack ya skull...

...its a no brainer IMHO.


BoulderBaby

8-Nov-2011
10:12:16 PM

Defo get a new one.

I quite like Edelrid's helmets, as well as petzls - but there are so many other brands. Pretty sure you can pick up some CAMP ones at anaconda for cheap.


ajfclark

8-Nov-2011
10:15:53 PM

So, here's a thread about a softshell helmet designed for climbing failing: http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=5&MessageID=1805&Replies=32 (It's since been redesigned) and the damage caused:

If that's what can happen with a helmet designed for climbing impacts, I'd hate to see what happens with a bike helmet.

Nick SA

8-Nov-2011
10:22:59 PM

Any chance this was at Werribee Gorge? I saw a fair bit of blood a couple of routes right of snatch and grab while their on sunday.


shortman

8-Nov-2011
11:48:30 PM

Get something that is comfy. Don't worry about price.

Wendy

9-Nov-2011
7:38:02 AM

On 8/11/2011 conando wrote:
>Had my first outdoor climbing experience over the weekend which was great
>up until after 2 runs the guy who we got a ride with fell leading, popped
>a couple bits of gear and cracked his head and poured a couple pints of
>blood over my mate who was belaying him. Unfortunately for him he had forgotten
>to put on his helmet.

I thought I might point out that this is not a normal outdoor climbing experience. Competent climbers do not rip multiple pieces of gear on a regular basis. I would suggest that either your friend was out of his depth, had poor judgement of gear or had specifically chosen to do something he knew had crap gear that could result in it ripping. The last one, I am also guessing is not the case as I doubt he would have been forgetting his helmet knowing he was facing a dodgy lead.

So my other point is that when you are new to climbing, it's hard to judge the capability of the people you hook up with to climb. If in any doubt, fûck them off and find other people to learn from. To remove all doubt that your new found mentor may be a massive hazard or totally overstating his/her competence, join the VCC or hire a guide.


StuckNut

9-Nov-2011
9:08:59 AM

Depending on the cliff, its usually just as important to wear one whilst belaying than it is when climbing!

citationx

9-Nov-2011
9:19:31 AM

On 9/11/2011 Wendy wrote:
>On 8/11/2011 conando wrote:
>I thought I might point out that this is not a normal outdoor climbing
>experience.

Indeed. In my 8 years of climbing I've only seen one piece ripped and that was my partner's dodgy placement in a flaring crack on sydney sandstone...
Definitely questions about your partner.

ps. for a while I wore a BD half-dome helmet but it seemed pinchy around the back of my head. Using the Petzl Elios i don't seem to have the same constriction... (get one that's comfortable)


Sabu

9-Nov-2011
9:21:54 AM

Yep, buy a new one that you find comfortable and get into the habit of wearing one. They're not expensive and its an easy decision when you consider the implications of a traumatic brain injury (your friend got off lightly)!

Also Wendy's advice is spot on.


Eduardo Slabofvic

9-Nov-2011
9:25:53 AM

Someone once said on another thread ages ago "If you are wondering if helmets are a good idea, then go visit a head injury hospital ward" or words to that effect.

Having suffered a head injury earlier this year whilst wearing a helmet, I'll wear one all the time. When I went to buy a new one (the old one was broken) I didn't even look at the price, I bought the one that fitted me best.

jrc

9-Nov-2011
9:35:30 AM

Feisty words today Wendy, but it did read a bit epic!

People who know me tell me I am the world's worst helmet (non) wearer. I hate the things with a passion.

However, My son just got donged on the front of his head in the wolgan the other day when he looked out from under an overhang at some abseilers so we had a bit of a family helmet review. He has a nice light blu one but it wasn't on his head when he got hit-fortunately a glancing blow but it stilld rew blood. Ended up me getting this lurid petzl job from mtn equipment but it is (feels) SUPER light and more importantly it does not push down on my ears and i cannot see it at all when its on. Elios i think. Wore it all day Sunday almost without noticing.

There is an evenlighter one in petzl's catalogue called a meteor 3. Anyway i am happy with the elios. for $90 it is cheap extra protection. And yes i am still placing pro as firmly as i ever did.

anthonycuskelly

9-Nov-2011
9:45:26 AM

I get nervous climbing with someone without a helmet, and will try pretty hard to avoid it! Applies especially to belayers (dropped gear, rocks, falcons...). Currently using a Grivel Salamander, pretty comfy.

As for ripping gear: I've ripped 2 pieces, in 2 separate falls, in 7 years (and one of those I knew was crap). Someone not wearing a helmet and ripping multiple pieces sounds a bit... dodgy...


ajfclark

9-Nov-2011
9:45:46 AM

On 9/11/2011 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>Someone once said on another thread ages ago "If you are wondering if helmets are a good idea, then go visit a head injury hospital ward" or words to that effect.

That obviously works well.

I wonder if we could lower teen pregnancy rates by taking young ladies on a tour of the maternity ward?

rolsen1

9-Nov-2011
9:52:20 AM

On 9/11/2011 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>Someone once said on another thread ages ago "If you are wondering if helmets
>are a good idea, then go visit a head injury hospital ward" or words to
>that effect.
>
>Having suffered a head injury earlier this year whilst wearing a helmet,
>I'll wear one all the time. When I went to buy a new one (the old one
>was broken) I didn't even look at the price, I bought the one that fitted
>me best.

Even safer is to not go climbing in first place

mthrfckr

9-Nov-2011
10:27:54 AM

Maybe we can cure the liberal party by taking them to the demntia ward?


Sabu

9-Nov-2011
10:31:18 AM

On 9/11/2011 rolsen1 wrote:
>Even safer is to not go climbing in first place

Screw that, just avoid driving to the crag. Much safer on rock than on the road!!


IdratherbeclimbingM9

9-Nov-2011
11:49:39 AM

Oh, goody, another helmet thread!

I continue to wear a heavy old style fibregalss helmet that I have had for probably longer than original poster to this thread is old. It is part of my climbing, and I feel naked without it.
I have considered updating to a newer lightweight jobbie from time to time, but have not got around to ever doing it, due to also daily wearing a motorcycle helmet, and when I change helmets to climb, my climbing helmet seems lightweight by comparison!

What am I rambling on about?
1. Helmet wearing is a matter of what you get used too.
2. Over many years of climbing, I have seen and heard of enough instances of mishap, to continue to put up with the 'inconvenience' of wearing a helmet as being the lesser evil...

Kieranl

9-Nov-2011
12:00:52 PM

On 9/11/2011 Sabu wrote:
>On 9/11/2011 rolsen1 wrote:
>>Even safer is to not go climbing in first place
>
>Screw that, just avoid driving to the crag. Much safer on rock than on
>the road!!
I think this is a myth that we invented to delude ourselves. I know of only 1 person who has died while driving to Arapiles.

There are 38 messages in this topic.