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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Topic Date User

Trad Placement Failures? 23-May-2005 At 9:23:57 PM socialclimber

Message

>"There is now in England issue where
>once bomber trad gear placements are failing after many years of taking
>falls and the wear of placing and removing protection."

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Theres a classic route at The Tors in the Port Hills (Christchurch NZ) called Nudity. It's a finger crack in a dihedral and when it was put up in 1977it was protected by nuts.after 28 years no one protects it with nuts any more. Evey placment is shakey due to wear and tear. the way to go now is sub No.1 cams. I guess I won't be too worried how to protect it in 2033 but it would be interesting to see the crack after 28 more years of plugging cams. Probably worth mentioning all the rock in the Port Hills is a form of basalt.