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Topic Date User

Totem cams and two-lobe placements... 25-Jul-2011 At 3:06:32 PM Winston Smith

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New cams have appeared on the Australian market. The sales blurb where you buy Totem cams online emphasises, among other things, their unique ability to be loaded on two of their four lobes.

Unfortunately it does not explain that this claim is not really true when it comes to dynamic falls. Sure the devil's in the detail but it sure ain't as clear as maybe it should be.

On the Totem Cams website it's also not really clear until you go to the 'Unique Capabilities' tab: http://www.totemcams.com/content/index.php?id=1&se=3&su=1242136075&ap=1242136439

This is what it says:

'Loadable on just two lobes, to exploit shallow or flared cracks where one or two outer lobes cannot establish rock contact. To load just two lobes, connect a carabiner at a point where the sling is supported (see figure). Do not use Totem Cam in this way to protect against a fall. This reduces its stability and halves its strength. Placements involving only half of the lobes can help to support body weight in some aid climbing situations. Learn more about loading just two lobes.'

Doesn't sound unique, just potentially life threatening if you're a freeclimber and don't read the small print.

However two-lobe placement dynamic failure and other failures are spelled out in the company's own video on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iM6D8Kw2prg&NR=1