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Trad Placement Failures? 29-Apr-2005 At 3:48:00 PM manacubus

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Lucky we don't have too much grit-like stuff to wear out eh? I can't think of any examples in Australia myself. I guess with those grit routes the protection options are often very narrowly defined e.g. you will place a #1.5 cam in this particular spot of this flaring break, otherwise you've got no gear. Therefore that spot gets progressively hammered by cam lobes until eventually the flare opens up and pieces start pulling.

In Oz, you'd have to think about what routes rely on a specific piece of gear in a very specific placement on a route. Also something hard enough that people regularly fall on it. Things that spring to mind include the wire on Spasm In A Chasm at Araps and the RP placement on the crux of Tit For Tat in Townsville (which routinely snaps). Are there any hardish, well-trafficked routes on softer rock with such specific placements? The rock at Point Perp is a prime candidate, but most hard routes there are on bolts, or at least have bolted cruxes.