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Author

Sling help

KV

14-May-2011
12:46:54 AM

Hi chockstone, I have been climbing indoors, weekly for about a year and have gone on a couple of outdoor trips with my Uni club (Arapiles and Werribee gorge). I am about to buy a couple of basic items to make myself a little more self sufficient when climbing. At the moment I have a solitary biner, to be joined by a couple more (Wild Country titan IIs to join my existing Wild Country titan I), an ATC Guide (because for the price difference between the guide and the XP, I might as well get the guide) and a sling or two, for attaching myself to anchors etc The help I want is with regards to the sling(s?). What length would be most appropriate? Should I get a couple of different lengths? I was looking at 120cm Blue water 13mm spectra sling or should I sacrifice 5kn, and save myself $15 and go for the 16mm nylon one? is 120cm a good length? Is there anything else people can thing of that I might have missed (apart from prussik loops, getting that from the local gym).

Basically I want to be able to rock up and second a climb without having to rely on the leader for stuff I need for my own protection (if that makes any sense?).

mikllaw

14-May-2011
6:31:28 AM

single or double length sling (fits once over your shoulder, or has to be doubled) depending on what it's for, clipping into belays etc?
You should learn to tie tape knots
http://ozultimate.com/canyoning/knots/tape_knot/
and just buy some tape as it will be much cheaper.

Get a screwgate if you don't already have one.

Something to remove gear is handy, either a purpose made $ one, or an old screwdriver or shelving bracket hanging from a bit of tatt so you don't drop it.

Helmet, shoes, harness?

salty crag

14-May-2011
9:00:15 AM

Give Steve Morris at Rock Hardware a call, he will help set you up and give you a few options, he's a good bloke.

MichaelOR

14-May-2011
10:24:45 AM

When attaching to anchors, belays etc (eg on ledges, cliff tops ) use a nylon sling and locking biners - DON'T use spectra slings. [You can also use the climbing rope.] Spectra slings can't always handle shock loading. eg When you are attached directly to an anchor on a ledge, you move around a bit and stumble off the ledge. They don't stretch and therefore can't absorb the energy like nylon slings. You get all the impact of the fall if the spectra sling holds! Small falls in this situation can be lethal.
I always carry a nylon sling with small locker biner for anchoring. That enables a quick attachment at any belay - including at the top of routes when threading rings/rap anchors.
Michael

BoulderBaby

14-May-2011
12:28:36 PM

http://www.dmmclimbing.com/news.asp?nid=293&ngroup=1

Here's some very useful information about dyneema and nylon slings. Make sure you watch the video to the end.

bw

14-May-2011
1:19:25 PM

the slings referred to as 'shoulder length' = 60cm, doubles are 120 (duh!) :)
I find the 60s very handy but good to have a double handy. I also keep a length of tape in my pack, maybe 4 metres - cheap as and as per mikls link, tape knots are easy as hell to tie. Don't fall onto any kind of sling, clip in short.

KV

15-May-2011
1:18:39 AM

Thankyou all, going with the 120cm nylon. (and to answer someone else's question, I have the harness and shoes already).

Boulderbaby, that was very interesting!

There are 7 messages in this topic.