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Small Cam Advice - Metolius Master Cams & TCUs

SammyB

27-Mar-2011
2:31:03 PM

Hi Everyone,

Just after some advice on Metolius Cams.
I am wanting to add some small cams to my rack and have come down to either Metolius Master Cams or TCUs. I am looking at sizes 1, 2 & 3. I currently have BD C4s 0.5-3.

Anyone have any experience with these cams? I do most of my climbing at Araps but will hopefully be doing quite a bit more on granite around Melb.

I have used TCU's and Powercams before and really like the feel. I understand the limitations of u-stem cams in vertical cracks etc. I have never used master cams but have heard great things.

Any input much appreciated, Cheers, Sam

gfdonc

27-Mar-2011
2:41:33 PM

I only have two offset Master Cams but the seem really good and get used a fair bit. My experience with them is enough to recommend them generally as a good option for the smaller sizes.

another dave

27-Mar-2011
3:34:36 PM

This seems to be the best site in regards to small cam reviews
http://www.supertopo.com/reviews/gear.php?cat=1214&c=small+camming+device

I have seen a tcu rip at araps it was placed in a pocket at about 30 degrees really close to the ground. The climber fell, the tcu ripped and a nut caught the fall just off the ground. I think the cable on the tcu touched the rock and levered the lobes of the cam out sideways instead of allowing them to cam in a straight down fall. I don't think it would have happened with a single stem cam.
I would suggest you get the four lobe units over the 3 as they have greater holding power.
I think your choice depends on what type of rock you plan to use them on. Araps and limestone has lots of weird shapped pockets or features so go with the single stem units.
For Dolerite, granite, sandstone it won't make to much difference however the U stem models are stronger and lighter.
Though for sandstone I would personally prefer as many lobes on the rock as possible especially at pt perp.
There is also a video on youtube somewhere (couldn't find it) showing a mastercam in a horizontal placement that when loaded cause the triggers to disengage the lobes.

But in the end they all work and I don't think when your struggling and swearing halfway up a climb your first thought is going to be "oh shit I wish I had (insert model of cam here) instead of these crappy things"

The Good Dr

27-Mar-2011
6:14:11 PM

Each have their advantages and disadvantages. If you can get the opportunity, use someone elses to see what you like.

Miguel75

27-Mar-2011
7:13:57 PM

I have a set of the smaller mastercams, WC zeroes and small BD cams and have to say they all feel solid (to me) when placed well.

I like the flexibility of the Zeroes and seem to reach for them first...

Eduardo Slabofvic

27-Mar-2011
9:30:27 PM

I'll show you both halves of my TCU, then you can decide.

Paz

27-Mar-2011
9:59:36 PM

On 27/03/2011 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>I'll show you both halves of my TCU, then you can decide.

They're only rated to sub 10kn, not Eduardo kn.

check out that test Mikl did a little while ago if it's still up...

Eduardo Slabofvic

28-Mar-2011
9:15:22 AM

I eat 10kn for breakfast

Miguel75

28-Mar-2011
9:29:03 AM

On 28/03/2011 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>I eat 10kn for breakfast

How many Weetbix = 10kn?

Wendy

28-Mar-2011
9:29:38 AM

And is the composting toilet rated for that?

Wendy

28-Mar-2011
9:30:25 AM

And why hasn't M9 linked to the 30 other threads already existing on this topic yet? You're behind the times, Rod.

IdratherbeclimbingM9

28-Mar-2011
10:30:12 AM

The others don't have as much ES humour in them!

SammyB

28-Mar-2011
9:40:40 PM

Thanks for the input, I reckon I'm gonna go with the Master Cams. I'm sure I'll be happy with em. Cheers

There are 13 messages in this topic.