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Topic Date User

Offset cams: just for pin scars? 25-Feb-2011 At 11:24:41 AM Gavo

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Im not sure Wendy. I dont place them on everything, I think they have their place.

But I have found quite a few placements that a standard nut wouldnt work on, and the offset literally felt it was made for it. Maybe you should have a play around with some to get a feel for them? You can check out mine on something if you like.

Pretty much every climb Ive led where Ive been seconded by someone who hadnt been up since I got the offsets, has commented on good at least one of the offset placements were. On D minor 2 weeks ago there were 2 placements where they honestly felt like they were made for them. There is no way I could have made a normal nut fit the same as the offset.

I agree though that its posible its a false sense of security if the back cant be seen. But usually Im putting them in placements that are flaring out, close to veritcal, and tapering in at the lower part of the crack. Especially good if the flare narrows right near the outer face but there have been so many great placements, they give me a smile when I get them in those.

Having said that, maybe my standard nuts arnt as good to place as WCs or BDs? I currently use 2x 1-6 DMM wallnuts, 1x 7-10 DMM wallnuts, 1x 7-11 DMM offsets, and 1x 1-5 peenuts. The peenuts are like the offsets but smooth on all sides and far smaller wires. I use these far less frequently because these do not bed in as well as the fullsize offsets. I find I am almost always more comfortable with a wallnut placement than a peenut, but the offsets are different. They seem to work super well