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Topic Date User

Bad chains anchors and angle 23-Feb-2011 At 9:21:45 PM Wollemi

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On 22/02/2011 mikllaw wrote:
>One of the chains I pulled off...
>The 'sling angle (internal) is about 140 degrees, so the force multiplication
>is over 3. A rusty 6mm chain is proabably still good for 12kN, so top-roping
>should 'just' be ok, belaying on it would be scary. Anything over 90 degrees
>is not good.

>I think the formula for force multipication 'M' vs the internal angle
>'x' is that M=1/cos(x/2).
>
With respect to those that understand the formula better, didn't everyone else get distracted along these lines(!) last week? Due to the existance of slacklines (which seemingly are not so slack), and tyroleans; think Totem Pole back to the Tassie mainland - sling angle and force multiplication are no longer relevant, right?...