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More on Rescue and Gear Shenanigans 30-Nov-2010 At 11:07:30 AM evanbb

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Running through the scenarios made a few things clear that weren't before. I'll tell you what they are now.

Carry prussicks made of nylon cord; one short and thin the other long and thin. The short one will be your z-haul clip and autoblock if you ever use one. They've got to be thin to bite the rope properly. We did some tests of knots and cords yesterday and a proper prussick knot, with thin cord is the most reliable by a mile.

The long one will be used for any situation where you need to hold a weighted rope, like escaping a belay. It needs to be long so you can tie a munter/mule to untie later when it takes weight. Strongly recommend frigging around with this one at home before you are halfway up Bunny Bucket Buttress.

Tiblocks are awesome. I reccommend everyone has one on their harness.

Ditto an auto-locking, top belay device; ie ATC Guide or the Reverso.

If your second weighs more than you I reckon you've got buckleys of hauling them on a z-haul. At about 25kg more than Steve I can haul him but I would blow a valve hauling many metres.

Learn the Monster Munter. Invaluable for lowering deadweight. There's a good video on it here
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