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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
Found on The Spartan, Mt Piddington 27-Nov-2010 At 9:22:22 PM voodoo
Message
It certainly wasn't the climb I was expecting. It was astonishingly un-exposed.

I thought the offwidth was desperate - would have been happier with more than just 1 almost uncammed cam in there. You get to that point where the only way to salvation is to keep pressing on.

The traverse itself, I found difficulty came really from the scrunched up nature of it. Especially when you have to duck under that bulge in the roof. At no stage did the thought of where I was come into my head (ie exposure), just a realisation that if I didn't suck it up and get going I'd be toast.

The chimney past the traverse to gain the belay ledge was pretty funny, if a little awkward. Pretty sure I was chimneying with my head at one stage! :)

All in all, certainly an adventurous climb (and an interesting mix of styles for grade 16). But not really the sort of classic you line up to do every time you set foot at the crag.

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