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Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Found on The Spartan, Mt Piddington

3:15:05 PM
3 DMM wallnuts at the bottom of the offwidth crack.
They were approx 1m out of reach, so I asked one of the other guys to bring up a stick and some tape which together with a nut-tool made for a fun fishing exercise.
I'm not offering to give them back, just thought somebody might like to know where they are :)
3:34:22 PM
On 27/11/2010 Butters81 wrote:
>I'm not offering to give them back, just thought somebody might like to
>know where they are :)

Ha! Well played.

4:32:20 PM
Hey Butters, they're mine!! Like you said, out of reach and I also fished for a while. But we weren't about to go back up with a stick once we'd got down. What would you say if I told you they had sentimental value?? What if I said they're old and possibly unsafe?

6:40:02 PM

6:45:39 PM
On 27/11/2010 davidn wrote:
>Don't tell me - microfractures?!?!?!?!
>In which case, one wonders why you placed them.

I really have to be less subtle with poor attempts at levity.

Keep them Butters, must have been a bit of work getting them out of there. Enjoy the climb? I've still got bruises from jamming my leg into that offwidth.

7:40:17 PM
I joined Butters that day and led P2. I know exactly what bruise you're talking about! Mine's a rather fetching large green number.

8:14:58 PM
Well they certainly do look old...
In terms of the climb... that traverse was thought provoking to say the least.
The most common thought it provoked was "I want to go home"

9:22:22 PM
It certainly wasn't the climb I was expecting. It was astonishingly un-exposed.

I thought the offwidth was desperate - would have been happier with more than just 1 almost uncammed cam in there. You get to that point where the only way to salvation is to keep pressing on.

The traverse itself, I found difficulty came really from the scrunched up nature of it. Especially when you have to duck under that bulge in the roof. At no stage did the thought of where I was come into my head (ie exposure), just a realisation that if I didn't suck it up and get going I'd be toast.

The chimney past the traverse to gain the belay ledge was pretty funny, if a little awkward. Pretty sure I was chimneying with my head at one stage! :)

All in all, certainly an adventurous climb (and an interesting mix of styles for grade 16). But not really the sort of classic you line up to do every time you set foot at the crag.
1:19:56 PM
On 27/11/2010 voodoo wrote:

But absolutely worth talking someone else into doing
1:59:01 PM
I think anyone who has done spartan will atest to just how bloody good the last pitch is. Really, best pitch on the route. Maybe best at Piddo. Worth doing the route time after time for.

There are 10 messages in this topic.


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