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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
RP,s

markq
3/11/2010
1:21:21 PM
So I'm looking to buy a set of RP,s (will post to official stoked thread later)

What size range would I be looking@ for buffalo, araps, gramps, beginner aid etc?

Cheers all

Eduardo Slabofvic
3/11/2010
1:35:10 PM
doubles of all of them

Superstu
Online Now
3/11/2010
3:14:49 PM
just buy the big ones

once you fall on them properly they become the little thinner ones
Godless
3/11/2010
3:17:05 PM
no, that's how you make half sizes.

Gavo
3/11/2010
4:12:13 PM
just to add... anyone know who sells RPs online?

ajfclark
3/11/2010
4:18:08 PM
http://www.cliffhanger.com.au/product/Rack-Sets-Full-Sets/rps-full-set.php
http://www.climbinganchors.com.au/products/RP-Brass-Nuts.html
http://www.outdoorgearstore.com.au/store-climbing-bouldering/hardware/aid-gear/rp-brass-nuts.phps

gordoste
Online Now
3/11/2010
5:37:03 PM
As far as I've seen, RPs aren't much use at Buffalo. The crystals are typically too big for the RPs to get good purchase.
turtlespit
3/11/2010
5:48:10 PM
Has anybody had first hand experience with RP's vs the other micro nut options? (ie DMM IMPs, DMM Brass Offsets, BD Micro Stoppers)
brendan
3/11/2010
6:15:52 PM
On 3/11/2010 ajfclark wrote:
>http://www.cliffhanger.com.au/product/Rack-Sets-Full-Sets/rps-full-set.php
>http://www.climbinganchors.com.au/products/RP-Brass-Nuts.html
>http://www.outdoorgearstore.com.au/store-climbing-bouldering/hardware/aid-gear/rp-brass-n
>ts.phps

Climbing anchors doesnt have any RP's (well he has 4x 0 and 1x 1) i was gunna buy some from him the other week but checked the website, i think ill have to buy some DMM IMP's as you cant see to get RP's for a decent price in OZ
brendan
3/11/2010
6:19:04 PM
On 3/11/2010 turtlespit wrote:
>Has anybody had first hand experience with RP's vs the other micro nut
>options? (ie DMM IMPs, DMM Brass Offsets, BD Micro Stoppers)

i have some BD micros, dont like them as much as my RP's i would go IMP/RP's if your getting your first set of micros, I also have the Brass offsets but consider them more for aiding then free climbing although they would complement RPs if your getting a second set

Gavo
3/11/2010
6:42:11 PM
Thanks clarky

IdratherbeclimbingM9
3/11/2010
9:27:01 PM
On 3/11/2010 markq wrote:
>So I'm looking to buy a set of RP,s (will post to official stoked thread
>later)
>
>What size range would I be looking@ for buffalo, araps, gramps, beginner
>aid etc?
>

I find sizes #2 and #3 most useful, followed by all the smaller ones especially on harder aid.
In the smaller sizes it is not often that I will place just one, as mostly if I need that size I am also looking to double (or triple!), them up if being used for protection rather than aid.
About the only time I place just one of the smaller sizes other than for aid, is for redirectionals, or as an upward load piece to stop rope drag lifting out a more crucial piece above it!

I don't use the #4 and #5 much, as regular nuts often go in those placements.

gordoste wrote:
>As far as I've seen, RPs aren't much use at Buffalo. The crystals are typically too big for the RPs to get good purchase.

I find the opposite!
Heh, heh, heh.

turtlespit wrote:
>Has anybody had first hand experience with RP's vs the other micro nut options?

I prefer the HB offset RP's to the regular ones.For free climbing I would estimate that I use them more often than the regular RP's, ... but then again I don't get out to Arapiles much...

For aid, I find the regular RPs get used more often.
I bought a set of BD offset micronuts but found that I have not used them much, as the HB offsets seem to fit placements better.

davidn wrote:
>Other than hexes (and noting I'm unlikely to ever try ozy) what goes well at buffalo? tricams? Just cams? Run it the f--- out and harden up?

All of the above! Heh, heh, heh.
Plus your largest size cam is never out of place on a Buffalo rack!

gordoste
Online Now
4/11/2010
11:28:19 AM
I can imagine that RPs are useful if you're aiding. But most climbs at my grade have either bolts or a big enough crack to place a regular wire.

davidn - Wires and friends are both excellent at Buffalo. If you've only climbed at Araps or in the Grampians, allow some time on easy climbs to get used to finding placements in granite.

Superstu
Online Now
4/11/2010
12:40:27 PM
It's worth taking your RPs to Buffalo, along with everything else you own. Pick and choose your rack to the climb in question, no one rack fits all routes. Yes, many of the popular routes are bolt protected faces, but when you hit those dyke intrusions with beautiful compact stone (what sort of rock are they?) small wires might work. The dyke routes are the best climbs at buffalo, IMHO.
Samuel
4/11/2010
12:50:28 PM
Get a full set. It's such a laugh when you actually place a 0 to protect a lead fall.

gordoste
Online Now
4/11/2010
1:12:39 PM
markq - if you don't have a #4 camalot or equivalent then get that instead, you'll use it way more at Buffalo. I have a full set of RPs and have only used them once or twice - usually my BD microstoppers are small enough

markq
4/11/2010
1:23:55 PM
Cheers all, got a set sorted from steve.

See how they go saturday huh?

There are 17 messages in this topic.

 

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