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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author
Dry Treatment and Ropes
i_and_i
4-Jun-2010
12:48:30 PM

Hello all,

I'm trying to decide on my first rope which i hope to use for a year in Asia and then in Europe.
My shortlist is:

Mammut Supersafe 10.2
Tendon Ambition 10.2
Edelrid Hawk 10
Edelrid Osprey 10.5

Im really impressed by the feedback for Edelrid Hawk but wondered if it is wise to get a dry treated rope (which edelrid is not) since i will be climbing in Humid conditions? Does anybody know how important the dry coating would be? As well any feedback on the ropes listed would be appreciated.

Thanks,

JJ
maxdacat
4-Jun-2010
1:01:14 PM
Dry treated ropes tend to repel dirt (as well as water) better than standard ropes. Overall its not a huge concern but i figure dry treated = better longevity (although i have no scientific basis for this). I'm not sure dry treatment will deal better with the humidity of asia but it would help with the sand grains on Tonsai for example (naturally you would need a good rope bag of course).

If you're heading to europe consider a 70m rope which is handy for many crags. At these lengths sub 10mm diameters are more user friendly in terms of weight.
citationx
4-Jun-2010
2:18:18 PM
If you're not going to be climbing in the snow or rain, I wouldn't really bother with the extra money spent on a dry-treated rope. All it does is leave black shit on your hands after rapping or letting it slide through your hands on lowering. I think it stops the water from getting into the fibres and the core itself, not sure how much humidity is going to affect it.
If you're going to use it for an entire year of climbing trip, it probably won't last much longer than the trip so all the more reason to skimp on the amount you forego. If it's all sport then all the more reason to buy a 9.8 or 9.7 (or even as low as 9.4)mm rope and trash it. if the humidity gets to a <10mm rope it will handle like a 10mm anyway...

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