camalots for strength and camming range (double axle)
they are the ones that you slide up the crack as you climb, so you don't have to carry so many.
however,
trangos for weight.
i got nos 1 to 5 and 5 superfly draws in the mail, picked up the box and expected that there would be a note in it saying that the balance of my order would be ariving soon.
very very light.
& very reasonably priced
mine came from from pinnaclesports.com.au
but the smaller ones are about the same kN's as an open biner, or less.
so useful if you can't place a nut,
but if you can
nuts are much stronger.
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