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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Topic Date User
Can't buy board lasted shoes, next best thing? 30-Jul-2009 At 3:00:00 PM robbio
On 30/07/2009 One Day Hero wrote:

>Aussie granite is far more friendly to edging than the euro/north american
>stuff I've sampled. It has more tiny but sharp edges and crystals, and
>worse friction compared with other places. Edging is the only way to go
>on some steeper slabs.
....and "trying to smear in edging shoes is much easier than trying to edge in smearing shoes".....words of wisdom

These were my thoughts also. I was starting to think that I was the only one! I like that quote.

From my personal experiences (which i admit don't amount to much), slabbing in places like arapiles or the grampians tends to be almost all smearing. But the more granite i climb in Victoria, the more vital it seems to be able to edge well on nubbins, and i assume this would be easier with a stiffer shoe. I'm not saying that you don't smear on granite, of course you do, I just think choosing an appropriate shoe for aussie granite climbs should be based more on its edging ability rather than how well it smears...

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