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Author

Ropes

yumpet

14-May-2009
9:22:55 PM

Hey all i am just getting back into climbing after about 8 years, now i bought a new rope just as i got out of it (yeah dumb i know) it only got used probably twice and has been stored in my house ever since, its been dry and aired..... do ya reckon it would be still ok to use for top roping and stuff or do i have to fork out for a new rope too????


wallwombat

14-May-2009
9:27:01 PM

If it's been kept dry and out of the sun I think it will be fine.

I have a 10.5mm Edelweiss that was stored for about the same time and I use that for top roping and dogging and stuff.

It looks newer than my other ropes.

devlin66

14-May-2009
10:47:23 PM

I had a Mammut Galaxy that was stored for about 7 years after a full season of climbing. I still use it for leading as well as the new rope I have. It is a little stiffer than the new rope and the catch isn't as soft but I would expect that. So long as it was stored away from UV and any chemicals it should be fine. I do remember reading a test of older ropes that concluded they are fine if been stored and looked after properly.

gfdonc

15-May-2009
9:07:00 AM

I've done a bit of reading on this. The jury is still undecided, but my interpretation is that the rope loses very little if any tensile strength, but loses a little bit of elasticity over time. Matches the previous poster's comment about a harder 'catch'.


Macciza

15-May-2009
11:12:04 AM

On 14/05/2009 yumpet wrote:

>Hey all (snip)..... do ya reckon it would be still ok to use for top roping
>and stuff or do i have to fork out for a new rope too????

Absolutely, unless you towed your car with it at some point (and then it would probably still be good - I've used one like that and it was fine) . . .
You can even use semi-statics safely for top-roping (if you pay attention), as the typical loads generated are none too severe . . .
I'd climb on your rope without a worry, it sounds a hell of lot better than mine - I've probably got an 8 year old core-shot cord that I've used . . .
On belay . . .


tnd

15-May-2009
11:45:15 AM

As this is a decision on which your life could depend, you should be putting your question to the rope manufacturer, not a bunch of random people on the internet.

dmnz

15-May-2009
12:46:05 PM


IdratherbeclimbingM9

15-May-2009
12:49:01 PM

Are you folk trying to say my 30 year old kernmantle rope* is no good now?

Maybe you're right. I suppose it is time I retired it to top-roping use only.
;-)

(*... seems like only yesterday that I retired my laid manilla one~)!

gfdonc

15-May-2009
12:59:17 PM

On 15/05/2009 tnd wrote:
>As this is a decision on which your life could depend, you should be putting
>your question to the rope manufacturer, not a bunch of random people on
>the internet.

In direct response, I don't think you'll get a fair or definitive answer, although you could start with this:
http://www.bdel.com/scene/beta/qc_kp_archive.php#011907
Note this is in reference to a used, worn rope rather than just an old one.

On the other hand, if you believe there's a risk, and your life is worth more than $300 (or $200 if you check Ti's thread), go buy a new rope.

dmnz

15-May-2009
2:52:01 PM

On 14/05/2009 wallwombat wrote:
>If it's been kept dry and out of the sun I think it will be fine.
>
>I have a 10.5mm Edelweiss that was stored for about the same time and
>I use that for top roping and dogging and stuff.
>
>It looks newer than my other ropes.
>
>

and it will be...until one day it isn't

Paul

15-May-2009
3:39:53 PM

There is probably a good reason that manufacturers spesify a life span. Black diamond have done some testing of old ropes, google the report.

dmnz

15-May-2009
3:54:41 PM

On 15/05/2009 Paul wrote:
>There is probably a good reason that manufacturers spesify a life span.
>Black diamond have done some testing of old ropes, google the report.

Id always heard 3-5 years even if its not used?

Climbers are obsessed with doublingup, backing up and all that but then use suspect gear too...
it just doesnt make sense to me. money comes and goes
life...you only have one shot at it

devlin66

15-May-2009
5:20:34 PM

On 15/05/2009 Paul wrote:
>There is probably a good reason that manufacturers spesify a life span.
>Black diamond have done some testing of old ropes, google the report.

Some of it would be to create a turnover so they stay in business.

Like others have said though it's your life you are dealing with. If you know the history of the rope and are satisfied in your own mind then you'll either use it or buy a new one. I suppose if your are second guessing yourself then use it for something else.

edit* BD rope test page

Like I said know the history.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

15-May-2009
9:31:12 PM

Good link devlin66.
It has been a while since I have seen it, and I enjoyed reading the update.


wallwombat

17-May-2009
6:37:27 PM

I think that if climbing ropes, which were stored in a dry, dark place for a number of years, were liable to suddenly turn into friable, disintegrating cords of death, I would think twice about using ANY climbing ropes whatsoever, no matter how old.

If you are worried, don't lead on it.

I don't lead on my old rope but that's got more to do with me owning a fair few ropes that are new or reasonably new.

If I didn't have a job and was strapped for cash, I'd lead on my old one. No sweat.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

17-May-2009
8:45:55 PM

I'd be more worried about the new rope that has been in the store for possibly a long time in their front window, ... exposed to sunlight every day ...

racingtadpole

18-May-2009
8:52:04 AM

The definitive way to find out is to send it to a testing outfit and have it proof loaded. At work the statics have a 10yr service life, these are treated far harsher than the average climbing rope (if you treat your primary fall aresster like the guys I work with treat the statics they use you shouldnt be climbing). Having said that, the statics at work are not subjected to dynamic loading.
My personal thoughts regarding life span etc are fairly simple. When in doubt, chuck it out.

yumpet

18-May-2009
5:47:29 PM

For the record.... i emailed Mammut the other night and got a reply today

Good Morning Chris

thank you for your E-Mail

the approximate Life Span of a rope which never has been used is about 10 years maximum. A rarely used rope: twice per year up to 7 years Life Span.
You stored your rope in a dry cupboard which was the right thing to do. If you never had a big Fall...please check on page 26 on our website- Link point 1-8 it should be OK to still use your rope.
It is very difficult to give you a 100% OK because we can't have a look at your rope.

I hope we can help you with all the information on the Link
and I wish you a beautiful sommer/ winter in Australia

http://www.mammut.ch/images/Seilfibel_E_030617.pdf

devlin66

18-May-2009
7:25:38 PM

I love Mammut.

Paul

18-May-2009
9:24:26 PM

The info which came with my Mammut rope said up to 10 years, however both my rocca and sterling said five. I'am not sure if there is a difference in the materials used?

There are 35 messages in this topic.