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Tendonosis of long head of biceps 25-Apr-2012 At 11:01:26 AM Elaine Stevenson

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@Wendy - ah yes, totally understand the frustration of finding someone good and then having to replace them when they take on a new job / joys of finding time when friends/family can treat in their time off. I'll PM/email you the website/contact details of a musculoskeletal physio you could access easily from Nati who would well placed to assist. I spoke to them yesterday and I'm happy that the sort of problem you're describing is something which well fits within their scope.

@Miguel - I'm with AFJ on that one. While orthopods (surgeons) may have the tools etc to fix up the residual damage, the process of getting there would cause a truckload collateral damage (eg incisions, bone grafts etc etc) and you'd almost certainly be out of action for a sufficiently long time (months) to well and truly lose condition etc. That said, you probably do have options for improving function/performance without going under the knife, even 10 years down the track.

The sorts of things I'd be looking at would be a good osteo - sorting out inevitable structural compensations that occur following past injury etc is prime osteo territory. Other options you could consider include sessions with an EP (exercise physiologist), but have a talk to them first and get a sense of their understanding of climbers. You could also think about myo and physio too. There are highly skilled clinicians in both these fields who work more structurally/holistically - ie addressing residual compensations/limitations from past injuries etc.

People do pretty incredible things with significant deficits (eg fractures, joint replacements, amputations etc etc) so I don't for a minute think you'd be wasting your time, if you wanted to invest the effort etc.