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unusual? finger tweak.

wombly

11-Apr-2012
9:04:44 AM

After a few days on rock over easter I've pulled up with a sore, inflamed & slightly bruised spot on the top (i.e. nail side) of the area about halfway between the first and second joint. Didn't feel it go at any stage, but there was a reasonable amount of crimping activity on small blueys holds.

I'm guessing it will settle down with rest, but anyone have any idea what I might have over-used/abused? And no, it's the other hand.

wombly

17-Apr-2012
8:54:34 AM

Still hasn't settled down - anyone know of a decent physio in Canberra?

EvDog

17-Apr-2012
1:01:49 PM

I had a similar problem once. Scar tissue which had formed due to an earlier pulley tendon tear had glued various other surrounding tissues together, and to my repaired pulley. This all felt fine for months until I pulled a small crimp, felt pain and ended up with a swollen finger that was obviously bruised and painful to the touch (on the back/nail side behind my knuckle), but which oddly felt fine when I cranked. My pulley was in fact fine but the scar tissue had torn and in doing so injured other tissues it had attached itself to. I ended up with a noticeable lump of scar tissue which feels like gristle when pressed hard, at the back of my knuckle. If you have never injured the finger before this is unlikely to be the problem, if you have then perhaps it is. You can get scar tissue partially massaged out or ultra sounded to break it up. Both options are painful but it might prevent a repeat.

Linze

17-Apr-2012
1:48:02 PM

On 11/04/2012 wombly wrote:
>there was a reasonable amount of crimping activity on small blueys holds.
>
should have warmed up before getting on the obituary eh wombly ;)

wombly

17-Apr-2012
2:11:30 PM

>I had a similar problem once. Scar tissue which had formed due to an earlier pulley >tendon tear had glued various other surrounding tissues together, and to my repaired >pulley. This all felt fine for months until I pulled a small crimp, felt pain and ended up with >a swollen finger that was obviously bruised and painful to the touch (on the back/nail side >behind my knuckle), but which oddly felt fine when I cranked.

Thanks for the feedback - seems oddly similar. Although the brain is also deteriorating, as I can't remember if I've damaged that tendon in the past.

On a positive note, if anyone else has the same issue, I recommend a few weeks of Baroomba slabbing as an anti-crimp-dote. Produces the same skin-loss with no obvious tendon flare-ups.

wombly

17-Apr-2012
2:17:03 PM

>> should have warmed up before getting on the obituary eh wombly ;)

Serves me right for moving across to the dark side. Maybe if I'd dragged a full trad rack up Exhibition Wall instead of gallivanting around with only a few draws my tendons might have been warm enough to survive being shoved inside the gaping fissure?

Groveller

19-Apr-2012
8:50:27 PM

I had the same problem with a knuckle on my right hand. Rest and voltaren gel helped

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