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Climbers rescued off Margarine Ridge, Mt Hay 14-Nov-2011 At 12:09:23 PM PThomson

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I created the ACA entry for Margarine Ridge (in the original entry pmonks created) using the source pmonks listed, as well as some of my own comments from the experience aarond and I had in the middle of summer last year. (I see that some of what I wrote has been changed since then, however).

I think that there are a few considerations with this route which make it a potentially problematic climbing:

1. Finding the start is difficult, and a bit of a hike.
2. 2 pitches with unprotectable, lethal fall potential (pitch 1, and pitch 8 -the chimney-).
3. A lot of bad rock. Yes, it's probably only a 13 IF you forget the bad rock and use every single hold at your disposal... But if you're being smart and picking the bomber rock from the choss, it's probably closer to a 16 (I often use "Man Overboard" at Point Perp as the epitome of a grade 16 trad climb).
4. A lot of long pitches, lots of rope drag, creative gear placements (what's wrong with slinging that shrub? It'll totally hold if I fall!), and ROUTE FINDING difficulties.
5. The bushwalking/scrambling/gardening in-between pitches! - Personally, I think that this is a huge factor. The amount of time lost during some of these hikes is actually quite astonishing.
6. Grade 9 for the last pitch, seriously?

I'm not saying that it's a "bad" or "dangerous" day out, but I WILL say -in defense of individuals who have epics on this route- that it IS understandable. And that's a part of "adventurous trad climbing".

Having said that, I don't condone calling 000 for anything less than a broken leg or being struck by lightning.

Personally, you couldn't pay me to go do MR again (unless it was in Alien cams... I'd do just about anything for more Aliens), BUT I don't regret the day out. Because it was a bloody awesome adventure, and interesting doing the last 2 pitches in the dark.