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Hand wrist tendonds? 28-Feb-2011 At 1:47:59 PM Gavo

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On 28/02/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 28/02/2011 Gavo wrote:
Power is easy, stamina is hard!

Ive said from the start that stamina (I called it endurance) is lacking with me. I definitely need to work on that. So far Ive done no work what-so-ever other than getting out and climbing every weekend I have free, which is almost all of them because I am a loser.

>Get a training book.
I have "performance rockclimbing" by Goddard and Neuman. Heard it was the gold standard but also heard that some of the techniques are very much the opposite of accurate given current thinking. Any thoughts?

>I skimmed one once, there was a cool analogy about
>doing up a shitbox car...........I won't go into it, point of the story
>is this; You've already identified that crux's are not shutting you down
>on routes........therefore all the power training in the world won't help
>you improve, because your climbing is bumping into a bunch of other limiting
>factors.
Fair call. Im not weak, Im just not strong for long :)

>So far
>>on trad, the problems Ive encountered have been as you said, endurance/stamina
>>(getting pumped is my biggest, and that has happened on far lower grades
>>as well such as Rats Tail (16) at the Grampians, and fear/trust in placements.
>>
>Everyone knows what to do for stamina, no one wants to do it.........discipline!
Dont follow.. what is it everyone knows how to do to improve their stamina? Building a campus board inside = helpful?

>Fear/trust............I shudder to suggest this, but aid climbing will
>really help you to sort out good gear from crap. Sport climbing/gym leading
>with proper, deliberate falls involved will help you to trust your rope/belayer.
I should have been more clear. I dont have fear/lack of trust in my placements that much anymore, it was when I started. The usual "am I doing this right" part. Having said that I guess Im not 100% since Ive only taken 1 fall on trad lead and that was deliberate and only about 2 meters to see what it felt like. But these days, its not so much a lack of trust in my gear placements, just taking big falls onto a ledge or some such, or the feeling of exposure.

>Get milage on routes which don't scare/pump you........actual milage,
>a quantity of climbing measurable in miles! You need to climb 20-30 pitchs
>in a weekend, and the next weekend, and the one after that. Then you'll
>start to see some stamina coming on. If you can't squeeze enough routes
>into the day, drop the grade and try again.
I like this advice.
>

>Your roped climbing approach sounds just fine to me, doesn't seem dodgy
>at all(do more volume). Don't listen to davidn, sounds like his bouldering
>to climbing ratio is 15:1...........probably hasn't placed a wire in 6
>months and has a beanie sewn to his scalp!
haha Im not commenting, I find all input useful, Im not picking on anyone or anything at all. Thankyou to all for the input! And Im glad its not just me that thinks Im doing it ok on roped. Opinions can be totally varied.

>Yeah, that'll need a bit of modification
Definitely. Have to think on it.. oh there it is, dont do right handed reaching dynos to a left handed pocket. Or any other stupid move.